Showing posts with label Hipster. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Hipster. Show all posts

Thursday, 26 October 2023

Watch reviews 4U - Longines Heritage Conquest Automatic L16454524 'Maxi' 40mm watch

                                         

Longines Heritage Conquest Automatic L16454524 'Maxi' 40mm watch

A review of the black dial Longines Conquest Automatic 40mm 'Maxi' watch


Longines Heritage Conquest - 

a retro design, but new take on the 1954 original

Longines has produced another super looking watch, this time for their Heritage collection. The Conquest Automatic design harks back to a 1954 original from Longines. So, how does it fare against today's other Longines offerings? Nicely. And against the offerings of similarly pegged Swiss watch companies it is now gaining new fans with friendly pricing and great style.


                        A 1950's original Longines shows the Conquest's heritage roots

The Conquest is available in silver dial, cream dial and black dial versions, each variant has the gold dial triangular markers and gold accents. I think that the black dial version is the most striking of the model options as the gold furniture stands out. I quite like the Bauhaus inspired 'minimal' modern look of the 1950's Longines designs including this one, which is why I was drawn to this attractive piece. 

I wasn't intending to buy this but it was available at a good price. I did look at some Tissot Visodate watches recently but they were a bit of let down as they had no antireflective coating to the glass.


This old Goldsmiths advert for the Conquest shows the retail price - 

new Longines Heritage watches of a similar level I have seen priced around £2950

The watch reviewed here is the black dial 40mm Conquest, it was a one owner from new off  eBay and in as new condition, but with an after market strap fitted, no issue as I have a new 20mm Longines genuine strap to hand, although this strap as on the watch is quite adequate. 

Comparison of 40mm case Longines Conquest and 1832 from the Heritage collection -

this new take on Retro styling on some models is strengthening the Longines brand

Originally priced at £750 on eBay this Conquest was purchased for £600. It was something I looked at and considered for sometime before buying after deciding against a Tissot Visodate, I am no stranger to the retro Longines, my first in 1993 being an old 1958 Longines Silvergines which I still have. The Silvergines at c.35mm is a bit small but is a nice retro piece.

I saw some youtube videos on the Conquest which showed the watch from all angles and I decided that this would be a nice addition to my Longines box! I was certainly not disappointed with the purchase, it is in fantastic condition and looks really stylish and better than the photos.


                       The Conquest dial up close - a triumph of minimal elegance

                     The hands and dial feature small but functional lume sections

The Conquest model here is available in c. 37mm and a 40mm sizes, the smaller case size Conquest at 37mm has the 19mm strap and an acrylic crystal fitted, the acrylic harks back to the originals from 1954.The 40mm has a 20mm width strap. Ladies may prefer the smaller size watch, it is not a heavy or thick case watch so will suit a smaller wrist. It is weight wise not obtrusive and is light on the wrist.

          The Conquest Silver dial version also looks fantastic with the Gold features

The 40mm 'Maxi' size watch as the Longines brochure refers to it as, has the sapphire crystal fitted which cuts the reflection back. All have a highly polished 316L stainless steel case. The 37mm case might suit the smaller wrist, I prefer the 40mm size as this size sits well on my wrist and is about as small as I usually go on a watch, the exception being my old Japan Seiko 5's at c.37mm!


This is the 37mm version of the Conquest -
a typical size more akin to the 35mm of the 1950's originals

The Conquest is quite slim at around 9mm thickness and is not heavy, making it a great watch to wear all day. The stylish design allows it to wear as a work or leisure timepiece and also follows the Longines gift of making the watch look more expensive than it actually cost! The superb styling makes the Conquest equally at home in the office, at the Races or at dinner. It is truly a watch for all seasons and for everyone.

                                           

The classy enamelled button detail in the centre of the rear case -

a tasteful and striking part of the design - a glass exhibition panel 

around the centre button would have been a nice touch in my opinion.

The rear of the case is solid, unlike most of the Longines watches of today which have glass exhibition backs, the cover is topped off with a very nice looking enamelled centre button in the case back. A really good touch in my opinion would have been to have had a partial exhibition back in the area between the flats on the case base and the central emblem. There is nothing nicer than to see the watch movement and the Longines ones are so nicely finished.

 

The slim watch case is topped by a Longines Logo Crown - 

The Crown's proportional size is perfectly in scale to the case

Power for the watch is provided by an ETA movement as you would expect from Longines and although some might say that the ETA movement used in this watch is not the highest grade, it is very functional and does the job with a lovely smooth seconds hand which moves without any great jerkiness always a good sign. 

Although these Conquest model watches are competitively priced, they are great value for money. They deliver a good retro Longines look with a modern movement and great style without breaking the bank, secondhand they can be very reasonably priced.

The Gold appointments against the Black dial really shows off the watch to perfection.

The small date aperture above the logo is quirky but functional -

it doesn't please all but it gives the watch its own character.

Some might suggest that the case should have been gold plated to match the dial furniture, but I think that the design's style works on all the versions.

Overall, this is a very nicely designed and well thought out watch design. The design is very nicely done, it is not heavy and is very nicely finished. It has classy retro elegance and would suit the man or lady about town. Definitely a good buy.

Wednesday, 28 December 2022

Watch Reviews 4U Longines Record Chronometer L2-821-4-96-4 Blue Dial 40mm Watch

Longines Record Chronometer L2.821.4.96.4 Blue Dial 40mm Watch

The Longines Record Chronometer - a superb watch for the money
This is a blue dial although it looks darker in the picture

Longines have produced some amazing watches in the last ten years giving an entry into the luxury watch market for many who thought this level of watch ownership was out of reach. 

For a few thousand pounds you can own a very nicely designed and made Longines watch, Longines have managed to produce some great watches that ordinary people can own with the benefits affordability, style and great design. 

And there's no waiting list either, these watches can be picked up on-line or in the High Street. If you like the classic look of watches from the last 60 years then Longines is a brand you should consider. I'm not  into Sport or Divers watches, so Rolex doesn't really appeal to me for that reason for one, plus I rarely have need of a chronograph, although some Longines watches do have this facility. 


The Record is also available a version with a Metal strap

Up for review today is a new old stock L2.821.4.96.4 a watch from early 2022 and essentially brand new, still with the wrapper on the crystal and back. The Longines Record watch was available with a number of different dial colours, the Blue dial in my opinion is one of the best and simply looks great, as does the black too, although Blue dial watches are a favourite of mine - harking back to 1983 and ownership of my first Seiko 5 with a blue dial. This Longines has a blue 'sun ray' style dial which really shimmers in the light, it is great at showing off the detail on the dial face.

The movement is from ETA which Longines as part of Swatch group encompasses. ETA are very highly regarded and their movements have historically been fitted to many watch brands. The movement on this Record is beautifully finished and visible through a glass exhibition back, the dial has a single date window set from position 2 on the Crown and the sweep of the second hand is very smooth which Longines is known for - this smoothness denotes quality -the smoother the second hand travels is usually an indicator of the level of quality of the movement. It is also a Hack watch pull the crown right out and it stops the seconds hand. 


A superb presentation box rounds this off nicely

The Record Chronometer is a lovely watch, this 40mm one I think is the best size as it is not too large on the wrist but larger than the vintage usual c.32-37mm case size watches that Longines made in decades past. 

Although I generally prefer a 42mm + size watch, this watch is easy to read on the wrist and is not too small, it is about right I would say. I wouldn't want anything smaller say a 39mm or less, but this one is great and not heavy to wear.

The drawback I find with the smaller case size vintage pieces is that the dials are not so easy to read, 'oversize' vintage watches of say 38 to 40mm from the vintage era, are rarer and as such command much higher prices on the secondhand market. 

The Spirit 42mm - whilst a nice piece, I personally prefer the simpler 
Longines Record dial design over the the new Longines Spirit


                                           

The 40mm on the wrist the Record is a good size, but not overlarge 
ideal for the Hipster about town in London, New York or California

For those Hipsters amongst you who like the vintage look but might like a slightly larger dial then the Record might suit you, it is large enough without being over large and gives you a vintage look without the limitations of the 32-38mm of the original sized cases.

I was looking at one of the new 42mm size Longines Spirit Chronometers in Blue dial version recently but I chose this older Record model in preference over it - it was just a personal choice. I like the earlier watch's uncluttered dial, simple and functional and less fussy than the new spirit. 


A superb view of the mechanism afforded by the glass window in the case

I think the new Spirit version is nicely done, it has a row of 5 stars on the dial over the Chronometer title, the stars harking back to the old Longines Admiral watch of the 70's, the applied larger numbers on the new Spirit with the cut down 3 on the 42mm Spirit and the red tip to the seconds hand just looks a bit too 'busy' for me.


The Blue sun ray effect dial is so classy - 
understated but shows the dial furniture off to great effect

Given the choice of the two watches, I would go for the more 'stripped down' Record version.  It is a triumph of a modern and slightly minimalist design with echoes of the Bauhaus school of form and functionality of design. Just my personal choice! If I was given a modern Spirit I would be happy to wear it!

With a 20mm strap on the Record watch, finding a replacement strap in the future should be straightforward too. The strap closes in two parts onto a central part and the strap clasp has a central two button release which is very nicely done. The strap is Alligator leather front in blue finish with a calf leather inner in biscuit brown, high quality as you would expect and get from Longines.

The exhibition back on the Record affords a nice view of the automatic mechanism, something which is covered over on the newer Spirit which has a Stainless Steel cover held on by a number of screws to the rear of the case. However, perhaps that is an intentional design feature to give it more of an 'aviator' style and also does afford Longines to use their larger brand logo on the rear of the case to greater effect.

                                                      
                                    The tasteful blue fronted strap really sets off the watch.
                                               The glass exhibition back allows you to see
                                            the superbly finished movement in all its glory!

I first came across the Record Chronometer watch generally as a secondhand item on EBay in Japan and I was very impressed with the design of the watch. I believe there is a larger case size version at 44mm however this 40mm version will be fine for my needs and also in summer use a smaller watch is less heavy to wear when the weather is warmer. This watch is well worth purchasing if it suits your style and appeals to you.

This is a beautiful and stylish timepiece, a masterpiece of manufacturing too. If you are able to buy new or secondhand, I don't think that you will be disappointed by this piece, it is a nice everyday watch or will look stylish at events or social gatherings and is likely to attract interest thanks to the great style and design. Definitely a great one to own! 

Be sure to check out the other Heritage and Master collection watches from Longines too.