Watch Reviews 4U Seiko Presage SSA361J1 Cocktail Time Blue Dial with Power Reserve

 

Watch Reviews 4U Seiko Presage SSA361J1 Bluemoon 

Cocktail Time Blue Dial with Power Reserve 40.5mm Watch

Seiko's SSA361J 40.5mm watch

In 1983 I bought my first Seiko a Seiko 5 7009-4040, I have always been a fan of the Seiko 5 since then, but now find them rather a small case size at 37mm. I found the Seiko Presage series about 5 years ago and decided to look into it further recently. I do like the Seiko Blue dials, they look so good and the colour really stands out nicely.

As found on Amazon at £584 

I found mine on a deal with a UK Jewellers reduced to £260

I tend nowadays to favour a minimum 40mm case size watch, ideally 42-44mm, I came across a video of the 40.5mm Presage SSA361J on Youtube and was impressed with it. I find that the renowned Japanese quality with these watches is evident and after doing some more research, found a Presage at a great deal price that seemed too good to miss. In fact it was cheaper new than some used examples on Ebay and half the price virtually of one on Amazon.

The Metal Link Bracelet is stylish and flows with the case design -

The metal strap is heavier than the Leather one I have replaced it with

but I could have left the metal one on as it is stylish and well finished 

The Presage Blue Moon Cocktail SSA361J I purchased has a textured dial with a sun ray effect that radiates out from the centre, the dark blue dial shows variations in the light as the light falls on the dial and really looks good. The dial is marked with larger drop shaped markers at the 3,6, 9 and 12 positions, with smaller drop markers in between the seconds indicated in white print around the periphery of the dial.

I have now put the Presage on a Blue leather Strap

This matches the watch dial very nicely

The Seiko logo is metal but the rest of the dial titles and the chapter ring seconds markers are printed on. The dial is also available in White, light Blue, Brown, Black and Green colour options all with their own Cocktail related names, although some colour options may now not be available. Going back to my old Seiko watches, the darker Blue seems to be the most popular dial colour.

The watch dial has a 'Bauhaus' design feel to it, the watch is a great exercise in simple shape and form of the Bauhaus ethic where the design is not over elaborate, it looks great even though it is a simple layout. It basically just works and looks more expensive than it really is. 

Great elegance and simplicity

Such a great looking watch for the money

Evokes design influence from the 1950's

There is a power reserve quadrant on the dial on this watch which is useful to see how much power in the main spring remains and also has a sub dial date which looks stylish. There is no 12/24 hour indicator which would be useful to have, however some other Seiko variants have a GMT hand.

The open heart Blue dial model also looks great -

which I might also add to the Blue Moon

The Dauphine main hands are nicely finished, the seconds hand has a 'Cocktail Stirrer' design with the end diamond shape adding to the design theme of the range. I have seen comments about the finish on these watches being not good but looking at what I have seen on my recent new example I find it looks really good and I have no complaints.

On the wrist the 40.5mm size fits nicely

even though I tend to favour a 42-44mm watch usually

The case is 316L Stainless and nicely finished and polished and is topped with a Hardlex Crystal and exhibition back. This watch was supplied on a Seiko deployment catch bracelet with metal links, which although is nice and has a 1970's look to it, I did put the watch onto a leather strap to match the dial colour as this will suit me better. It certainly is an improvement on the old metal straps from the 90's  which were hair traps.

A side on view of the open heart model

Note the Gold Seconds Hand

The watch for information takes a 20mm wide strap and I found a couple of options in Blue leather on Amazon, one a strap and buckle and one a deployment type both in blue leather. I have now fitted the deployment type one as that saves the watch if the buckle comes undone.

The Seiko 4R movement is visible

through the exhibition case back

The movement on this watch is a 4R57 and whilst some have said this was too budget a movement for the watch and suggested a 6 series should have been used, the 4R does the job well and I have found it keeps very good time and is a Japan made movement at least. 

The simpler and thinner cased 3 hand version

What you do get is a watch that at the price is comparable to other higher level Seiko watches in design and looks and works very well, looking more expensive than the ticket price. Seiko have been clever to 'stagger' their watch models pricing so the delineation between price levels is not always that obvious.

The verdict:

I like this watch a lot, it is not heavy despite the thicker case than the non-power reserve presage versions, the dial looks great and the colour is nice and strong like on my old 7009-4040 from 1983, the finish is very good and as a daily wearer I don't think you can go wrong.

I tend to find 40mm case watches a bit on the small size but the dial is easy to read thanks to the markers really standing out from the base colour. It sits well on the wrist and does look proportionately right to me.

The details and specifications are:

The Seiko Presage SSA361J (often SSA361J1)

"Cocktail Time" automatic watch known for its stunning blue 

"Starlight" dial with a unique textured finish that shifts in the light, 

Powered by the 4R57 movement, 

Featuring a power reserve indicator (martini glass tip) 

and date sub-dial at 6 o'clock, all housed in a 40.5mm polished case with a 

Domed Hardlex crystal and dark blue leather strap. 

Limited to 3,500 pieces globally, it's celebrated for its intricate 

Japanese craftsmanship and beautiful design, 

making it a sought-after piece for collectors.

Key Specifications & Features:

Reference: SSA361J1.

• Collection: Presage Cocktail Time "Starlight".
• Movement: Seiko 4R57 Automatic.
• Dial: Deep blue, layered "Starlight" dial with diamond-shaped markers and silver hands.
• Functions: Time, date sub-dial (6 o'clock), power reserve indicator (12-4 o'clock) with martini glass pointer.
• Case: Polished stainless steel, 40.5mm diameter, ~11mm thick.
• Crystal: Domed Hardlex.
• Strap: Dark blue calfskin leather with alligator pattern.
• Water Resistance: 50m.
• Limited Edition: 3,500 pieces worldwide, individually numbered. 

Notable Aspects:

• Dial Depth: The multi-layered dial creates a beautiful effect, changing from deep blue to lighter tones.
• Cocktail Theme: The design draws inspiration from cocktail bars, with elements like the martini glass power reserve pointer.
• Craftsmanship: Features a display case back showing the movement and a signed crown. 

Watch Reviews 4U - Longines Master Collection L2.733.4 Black Dial 40mm Column Wheel Chronograph review

Watch Reviews 4U presents a review of a used

Longines Master Collection L2.733.4 40mm Black Dial 

40mm Chronograph watch from Michael Jones Jewellers  of Northampton -

I highly recommend this seller for their superb customer service - see below

40mm Longines L2.733.4 compared with an 1832 Heritage collection Watch

I found this very nice used Longines L2.733.4 Column Wheel Chronograph on Ebay recently for around £1200. I had in the past seen a couple of these on sale in Japan in used condition. 

Personally, 40mm case sizes are about the smallest I tend to go for just out of personal choice and this L2 at 39mm seemed a compromise but I found that the longer length lugs as also featured on the 1832 Heritage, actually made this fit very well for me. On the wrist the slight 1mm difference wasn't an issue.

The Longines Column Wheel L2.733.4 Chronograph 

at Michael Jones Jewellers

The Longines Column Wheel 40mm Chronograph - an L2.749.4.52.0 version

The L2 Column Wheel Chronograph echoes the styling of the 1832 Heritage watches and is available in a similar version with a different model number and also a white dial version. 

The L2 is a 1950's inspired 'Moderne' styling exercise with a stark black or white dial option and silvered metal dial furniture that gives this watch a classy look that is not out of date.

It features blade hands and there is a lame strip on the main hands and at the 5 minute interval markers around the dial. Whilst the light from these is minimal, they do work and is a nice touch as many of their dress watches feature solid metal hands.

Whether worn for business or as a dress watch, this L2 model is just pure style. As a Bauhaus design ethos admirer, this watch just appeals to me - being smart, classy, uncomplicated and wearable. Whilst it is also very functional and thus suits the design brief perfectly.

The sapphire glass with anti-reflective coating really makes the dial look pin sharp without reflections. The clarity of the glass on Longines watches I find really helps define the dial clarity and sharpness to the eye.

A Longines L2.749 40mm case size watch in similar style

Most of us won't have the need for a chronograph on what looks like a dress watch, so you might just choose the ordinary 1832 to fill that dressy watch requirement, but the small 3 dial chronograph gets away with it by not being overlarge, or over thick in the case depth.

In fact in comparison to the 1832 non-chronograph model, it is similar in case thickness. 

Easy to operate side buttons for the Chronograph

The Crown has Longines logo and wording present

My 1832 was new and remains unworn - this L2 styled version had been pre-owned so I was not too worried about wearing it. The case is slightly different to the 1832 Heritage in the bezel shape and the lugs are straight and long unlike the other L2.749 variation shown here, which has a slightly differently styled lug set.

Both long lug versions on the L2.733 and the 1832 Heritage although not appealing to all due to the gap between strap and case body, actually works well. The longer lug length puts the strap slightly further outboard and I find this means on a smaller 40mm size watch that the strap tends to drop away vertically from the spring bar, rather than allowing the strap to curve around the wrist, for hot weather perhaps an advantage. This also helps to make the watch look larger.

The date set push button

As you would expect from Longines, the case is superbly finished in polished 316L Stainless Steel. As with many of the Longines canon, it features an exhibition back allowing you to see the superbly finished movement through the crystal window. 

20mm strap with simple buckle closure in the Heritage style

The strap is an unfussy 'old school' strap and buckle style, again much in the style of the 1950's originals, tending to be less expensive than the Master Collection deployment type. The strap is a comfortable 20mm width and worn all day I found the watch was comfortable to wear and easy to read.

The exhibition back shows the movement off superbly 

on these column wheel chronographs - the blued column wheel

ratchet wheel mechanism is shown at the top of the image here

A white dial version I saw on sale with Ramsdens Financial at £1499.

I went for the black dial one as it ideally partnered my 1832 Heritage in black.

Ramsdens listing of their L2.733.4 Longines -

Check out their used watches pages as there are some good deals there

This example features a deployment type strap which some prefer.

Comparison of 40mm Heritage collection Conquest, Chronograph and 1832 Heritage

So what do we have in the L2.733.4? A nice and easy to wear watch, stylish, attractive timepiece that is not heavy on the wrist. Mine being a used example was in a very clean condition and pretty much like new. It is supplied with the nice wooden Longines box, booklet, pointer for date changing and an outer white Longines card box.

Essentially a £2k as new priced watch and on sale at around £1200. A good buy in my opinion, fairly priced and in great condition. Purchased from Michael Jones jewellers in Northamptonshire and thanks to Gareth who offered a superb customer service experience and was extremely helpful with the purchasing process and communication. So I would highly recommend them based on my purchase.

Marriage Watches explained - Repurposed Retro Chic Swiss origin watches that won't break the bank!

 

Think big - wear big - Marriage watches offer great style at an affordable price

So, what are 'Marriage Watches'? Probably one of the best kept secrets in watches!

How many times have you picked up a pocket watch at a collector's fair and liked the attractive dial but wished it was a wristwatch? Well, you are not alone. And there is a solution..

In the early 2000's, an industry started in Eastern Europe in the conversion of old pocket watches to wrist watches, a clever concept called 'Marriage Watches.' You basically take a pocket watch moment and in some cases the dial and case and either solder on new watch strap lugs, rotate the face 90 degrees and you have a large wristwatch. Great idea.

Often, these watches have 43mm+ diameter watch crystals, giving you that easy to read 'big watch' look dials but are not in most cases, 'heavy' to wear on the wrist. 

Cases are typically around 45mm+ and up to 60mm+ in the largest 'clocks' but typically I have found around 45-50mm diameter excluding the crown. Typically a 22mm wide strap is used which looks right for the case size.

These Marriage Watches have hand wound movements, but don't forget that even some very exclusive modern and expensive big name exclusive Swiss mechanical watch movements are hand wound, not all are automatic watches as you may think.

Molinja - one of the favoured bases for Marriage watch conversions

The Soviet Union produced many quality watches for Military and Transport use, even producing pocket watches into the late 1980s and beyond, the Molnija factory (meaning 'lightning' in Russian) produced this style really until the end of the Soviet state and beyond. It like other makes such as Raketa, Pobeda, Zim and others kept people in jobs in the Communist era even though Quartz watches took over the Western market and killed the Swiss mechanical market for everyday watches.

A Rolex enhanced 3602 movement improved by Molnija

Often based on Swiss movements like the Rolex 624, meant that the hard work of development was already mostly done, making for quality and accurate movements. 

A lovely retro style Molnija dial Marriage Watch with Gothic style numerals

The Soviet era produced some great retro looking dials too, whether based on Gothic numerals, block markers or unusual combinations of numerals and block markers in the bauhaus style of form and function. Perhaps the Soviet Union being behind the West in some ways created what we now call 'Retro' looking pieces.

Repurposed Swiss Longines watch from the 1920's

The availability of pocket watches in great numbers and the relative scarcity of their wristwatch equivalent counterparts in the Swiss makes for example market, created an obvious avenue for a new market. 

A Swiss Longines converted Marriage Watch might be sat £200 or $275 USD, against say £1300 or $1600 USD for an original vintage wristwatch version. Plus,the Marriage Watch is easier to read, the originals often having smaller dials.

An Omega repurposed is an obviously striking time piece

Obviously, with a Swiss name and a large dial on your wrist, there is an obvious 'wow' factor going on. However, the mysteriousness of a Russian Cyrillic name on the dial also invokes curiosity and the in many cases retro look and unknown watch face also starts conversations.

Roman Miller -  A Soviet Molnija based piece comparable to a 1920's Jaeger  -

fashioned from a batch of unused Molnija 'Rolex' origin movements

Whilst a converted Yuri Gagarin picture dial watch has its own appeal as a bit of fun, there is the old adage of you get what you pay for and for me, these Molnija Marriage Watches tick many boxes - they don't break the bank, are stylish, reliable and interesting - many are unique and one off dial designs too. The Retro appeal is there too, whether as a 1920's style or a Bauhaus looking piece.

There is always going to be that snobbery in watch collecting as in many other collecting fields, your repurposed Omega may be frowned upon by some, but at least conversion saves many from being left in drawers or worse, broken for the scrap value of the silver cases and the moan of ' no one wants pocket watches'.

From a collecting point of view, I think the Soviet ones have their following and are appreciated for what they are, stylish, fun and reliable. Under the glass you may often be getting a Swiss origin watch movement too. 

For Swiss movements like the Omega and Longines, it allows you to own one for a reasonable price that is often a unique creation if the dial has been created specially.

So should you buy? For the price and the style, I would say yes, plus the fact that they are at this time not expensive to buy.

Seiko 5 automatic watches - the design classic you should own!

The classic Seiko 5 - 50 years of great style

The great Seiko 5 in blue

As the Seiko 5 Series approaches half a century of production, this icon of watches has remained little changed. 

Some might call it retro fashion, I just think of it as a piece of great design in the vein of Bauhaus - where the beauty of the design was equal to the functionality.

For me, the Seiko 5 does both. The case looks modern and streamlined and surprisingly enough, is still available in an almost unchanged format from the originals.

Seiko 7009 - 4040 like mine

Years ago, in 1983 I purchased a 7070-4040 and I think it had to be about the best all round watch I ever owned. The finish was excellent, it kept perfect time and was reliable as anything. 

Recently, I decided to see what was around and found some old 4040's with the  blue face which I purchased. You can still find some decent used ones out there and also some of the Seiko 5's from similar model ranges. 

Modern Seiko 5 SNK with Blue face

I don't think you can go wrong here with one of these

Really for the money you can't go wrong. I personally think the blue face ones really look the nicest and those with the jubilee bracelet like the one above look best. The modern SNK version I think looks a good modern day alternative to a 4040 and they seem to enjoy good reviews.

Old school Seiko 5 6319 in blue from the early 1970's

Best of all, these don't need a battery, they are just powered by your movement! 

Check out Ebay for Seiko 5's, they are a good buy at the moment but interest is starting to pick up on them.